French Onion Soup à la Provençal

French Onion Soup à la Provençal 1

French Onion Soup à la Provençal
Photo © Jan-Erik Nilsson for CMC 2009

One usually associates the summer heat with a cool ice-cream. But today, the heat utdoors triggered a nostalgia of growing up in the tropics and of having hot soup on a hot day. So I thought I’d look around for something nice and warm for lunch, something that would go nicely with a glass of red.

My choice fell on a traditional onion soup à la Provençal. This soup is different from the clear broths I grew up with, but it’s a fairly well-known dish in the West. It exists in numerous variations and hopefully nobody will mind if I add our version to what is already available on the internet. You’re most welcome to enjoy the recipe or take it as inspiration.

Ingredients:

4-5 Onions
1 – 1,5 liter of calf broth. Meat cubes might do instead.
1-2 cloves of garlic
10 All spices seeds
Bay leaves
Thyme
Basil
Sherry
Butter
Olive oil

Peeling onions in warm water

Onions in warm water

When handling onions, my favourite is to soak them in hot water, which also makes them easy to peel.

Stirfry the onions

Quarter the onions and stir fry them until golden brown.

At the end of the stirring I add the spices; some All Spice seeds, Bay leaves, a few cloves of garlic and a few branches of fresh thyme (nice, but you will need to pick them out later). Then I add the calf broth and a dash of sherry. Leave on medium heat until you feel it is done. 30 minutes should do but this soup actually gets better the longer it cooks. Tomorrow it will be even better.

Midsummer crustacean fare: Swedish crayfish

Swedish crayfish on plate to Midsummer 2009

Swedish crayfish
Photo © Jan-Erik Nilsson and Cheryl Marie Cordeiro-Nilsson for CMC 2009

The season for these Swedish crayfish usually begins in early August, where the entire month of August is dedicated to crayfish parties around Sweden. But a neighbour had brought home a large catch of these and they thus made their way to our Midsummer table.

A significant difference in seafood sold in Sweden and in Singapore as I found out, is how most seafood in Sweden is sold pre-cooked in dill marinated brine, so that crayfish, prawns, crabs and lobsters often taste heavily salted with a hint of dill when you buy them off the shelves at the grocers. As such, cooking Singapore chilli crabs out of pre-cooked dill marinated crabs in brine, doesn’t quite give the desired results, as one can imagine.

Swedish crayfish in Kosta Boda glass bowl

Crown dill marinated and brine cooked crayfish.

Through the years though, I have found some use of brine boiled prawns bought off the shelves in Sweden, such as making quite good Hokkien prawn noodle soup from the peels. Just add butter, onion and sambal and you will have a broth that is reminescent of those sold at the Singapore hawker centers.

Swedish crayfish in Kosta Boda glass bowl 2

Crayfish bodies are usually 5 – 6 cm in length. These are shelled in the same manner as a large prawn.

Crayfish doesn’t need much to enhance its flavour. One of my favourite ways to have Swedish crayfish is to peel them and have a small pile of them with a little dollop of mayonnaise and a squeeze of lemon. Crayfish meat also makes a perfect topping on bread, and one or two crayfish sandwiches with a fresh blade of salad will make a most enjoyable meal!

And on the Swedish table, crayfish is often downed with snapps!

In season – Swedish grown strawberries

Swedish grown strawberries

Fresh from a strawberry farm in Sweden.Photo © Cheryl Marie Cordeiro-Nilsson and Jan-Erik Nilsson for CMC 2009

I’ve always known strawberries to come bottled in sweet jams. In fact, ‘strawberry’ as a flavour was so common when I was growing up in Singapore, where you have them in almost everything from milk to kiddy toothpaste, that I thought strawberry was common commodity even without actually having tasted the real fruit.

My very first encounter with a strawberry farm was in Genting Highlands, Malaysia when I was about eight years old. Genting Highlands is about an hour’s drive from Kuala Lumpur and I found it a scenic region with cooler temperatures than the tropical heat of the lowlands. I remember Genting Highlands because every morning, the grounds of the hotel where we stayed would be covered in thick condensation, a cool fog that made you feel as if you were walking in clouds.

I liked strawberry jam but the experience of visiting a strawberry farm in Genting Highlands, changed my understanding of strawberries completely! I remember my parents buying farm made strawberry jam from the farm we visited, and after one taste of what I thought was the most decadent strawberry jam, I never liked the highly processed versions found on the sheleves at the Singapore grocery stores.

Swedish grown strawberries in sink

The strawberries, just before they disappeared!

The digression on Genting Highlands strawberries is just because Midsummer weekend is around the corner here in Sweden and we’ve tried our best, in the past few days, to seek out freshly picked Swedish grown strawberries. And today, we found some!

These strawberries are smaller and a deeper red than the hydroponically grown strawberries that are also found at the local grocers. So for those in Sweden, home-grown Swedish strawberries are in season right now and it’s a recommended buy!

A light stew in sugar and they make a perfect topping to ice-cream or have them fresh atop some traditional strawberry fruit cake with cream!

Hellenistic lunch with lamb and tzatziki

Grilled lamb with feta cheese salad and tsatsiki

Serve with some full flavoured red wine and a few slices of fresh bread to wipe up those last drops of olive oil with.
Photo © Jan-Erik Nilsson for CMC 2009

There is something with the Swedish early summer that makes me crave for the specific Greek blend of flavors that goes so well with the smell of outdoor barbequing, a drop of red wine and a comfortable chair.

Greek Salad

For a Greek Salad you just need some feta cheese, some fresh and flavourful tomatoes, some crisp and fresh onions, some large black ‘Kalamata’ olives and some olive oil. Slice, dice and give it a quick stir. I love kalamatas for their taste and often think I should have them in as many salad dishes as possible, Greek or otherwise.

Feta cheese greek salad with olive oil

Serve with some full flavoured red wine and a few slices of fresh bread to wipe up those last drops of olive oil with. A full lunch does not need to be more complicated then that but the possible combinations are endless.

Tzatziki

A superbly simple dressing that goes well with this salad or as a side dish to barbecued lamb, is the Greek yogurt based tzatziki.

Yoghurt based tzatziki

To make, start with some shredded cucumber, drizzled with a teaspoon of salt and let it drain for some 20 minutes. Flavour some thickened yoghurt with 2 crushed cloves of garlic, 1 tbs white wine vinegar and 1 dash of olive oil. Stir, mix and serve. It gets even better after being refrigerated overnight.

Draining

Sprinkle the shredded cucumber with a teaspoon of salt and let it sit for about 20 minutes to drain.

Dinner party at Matsmak: the PhD disputationsfest

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro-Nilsson, PhD disputationsfest, Gothenburg

Standing at the set tables to the dinner party at Matsmak; I wore a pink pleated Tadashi gown with vintage gold tone jewellery.
Photo © J E Nilsson, David Neikter Nilsson for CMC 2009

The public defense of my doctoral thesis was followed by a dinner celebration held at Matsmak with Mikael Sande as Chef de Cuisine.

The evening event was surreal in the sense that Mikael’s restaurant had just moved to its new location at Drakegatan 1 in Gothenburg, and we were able to book the entire restaurant on a Saturday evening for ourselves. The restaurant, being located in a building with mainly offices, also meant that our guests had the entire building to themselves to enjoy that evening.

We had our seating outside of the restaurant, in the inner courtyard of the building that had white marble floors and a skylight roof that allowed the evening Scandinavian summer sun to stream through to the tables, where the light reflected pretty prisms off the rims of the wine glasses. Tall potted palm trees turned the inner courtyard into a cozy garden, so that you felt as if you were dining outdoors on a languid summer’s evening.

Jan-Erik Nilsson, disputationsfest, Göteborg

My husband, Jan-Erik Nilsson, during the cocktail session before dinner.

We had a cocktail mingle session with sparkling white wine before the actual dinner. This gave our guests time to acquaint themselves with each other if they had not already done so earlier on during the day. I was most happy to see a few friends and colleagues who had already graduated from the university, present at this dinner. It was like a reunion of sorts where you could catch up with what was going on in their lives.

Getting seated and making new acquaintances. Disputationsfest.

Getting seated and making new acquaintances.

The theme of the dinner continued in its French-Italian theme from the lunch buffé, though in this event, it was Mikael Sande who was in charge. Menus were printed for each guest with their names, according to their mother tongue and placed at their respective seating places.
Continue reading “Dinner party at Matsmak: the PhD disputationsfest”

Spaghetti al Salsa di Pomodoro Crudo

Mixing the cherry tomaroes with the tagliatelle. At Cheryl Marie Cordeiro

Cherry tomatoes marinated in olive oil and garlic, going on top of some tagliatelle.
Photo © J E Nilsson for CMC 2009

It was during our trip to Italy late last year when we stepped into a genuine Tuscan house where the old housewife continued to uphold the family cooking traditions that stemmed from generations back. We sat down and settled for Aqua and a pasta dish that seemed nice, and walked straight into a new world of flavours as unexpected as unforgettable.

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro, Florence, Italy 2008

Standing outside a fantastic eating place with a beautiful view, about one hours drive from Florence.

This restaurant is located about one hour’s drive from Florence, a small monastery that serves food. I don’t even remember the name of it but it’s somewhere along the A1 when heading from the Gucci factory outlet, towards the vineyard cooperatives around San Gimignano. This is where I got introduced to this dish.

It’s very simple to prepare, as are many Tuscan dishes. The only things you need to be very careful with are the ingredients or the whole thing is hopelessly lost before you start and you will just be disappointed.

To make Spaghetti al Salsa di Pomodoro Crudo, you just cut, crush and mix into a bowl and let it sit in a warm room from morning to about lunch.

For about four persons, I took about 20 small sweet, flavour filled and sun ripened tomatoes, a generous handful of fresh basil and one fair sized clove of garlic.

Cherry tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and basicl. At Cheryl Marie Cordeiro

Ingredients to this tagliatelle dish.

Crush the garlic clove, slice the tomatoes directly into the bowl so that the juices are not lost along the way; shred the basil leafs into the bowl using fingers and top up the bowl with fresh, green and fruity first class olive oil.

Ripened cherry tomatoes sliced and ready for marinating. At Cheryl Marie Cordeiro

Sliced cherry tomatoes.

Olive oil Pouring olive oil into the cherry tomatoes and garlic mixture.

When it comes to olive oil, there are different qualities beyond “virgin” and “cold pressed” oils. What you want is something better than extra virgin olive oil in flavour. The oil to look for is from those that hand pick their olives and have them pressed on a daily basis. Although this kind of quality olive oil is difficult to source, the daily pressed olive oils will render oils that are ultra low in acid content. In the end, this decides the fruitiness and the aroma and ultimately the entire experience of the dish.

When it is time to serve, remove the garlic cloves and pour the tomatoes with the wonderfully flavored olive oil into a bowl of steaming hot and freshly cooked pasta. For four persons you will need about 400 grams (1 lb) of pasta. Top off the dish with freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of sea salt.

My new cooking buddy, the Grill Pan

Fillet of beef on an iron grill pan. At Cheryl Marie Cordeiro

To fry a few pieces of Couer de Filet of Beef to perfection,
sprinkle with sea salt, let the beef rest in room temperature for about 40 minutes. Fry one side until brown in a grill pan, flip once and fry until done. Let the beef rest for 5-10 minutes before serving.

Photo © J E Nilsson for CMC

There are a million good reasons to go out and buy a new pot or pan to the kitchen if you really try to come up with some. But what it eventually boils down to (excuse the pun) is that it makes cooking more fun. Sometimes, having a new utensil might even improve the results of your efforts.

On my part, I often find myself buying something that looks nice, figuring out later what to use it for. Eventually I will show you a very nice Italian milk-foamer and yes, a perfectly useless high-tech electric juicer that currently eats up half a cabinet of shelf space and we can’t throw it away because it was too expensive to buy in the first place. And is there anyone who actually even knows what a raquelette is?

However, our latest toy was not improvised but something that we decided to make do with, after we decided that a separate grill section to the stove would not be practical after all. After some shopping around we simply chose the heaviest cast iron grill pan we could find, which turned out to be an 11″ AGA with black enamel coating inside and out. The very look of the pan sitting snug in the shop was enough to get us all excited about it, conjuring up dishes to cook in it!

AGA cast iron grill pan. At Cheryl Marie Cordeiro

Our new toy, 2.9 kgs worth of cast iron AGA grill pan makes frying in barbeque style a breeze. The heat source does not matter as long as it can make the grill pan sizzling hot.

Continue reading “My new cooking buddy, the Grill Pan”

Pasta and Chicken liver sauté, just XO good …

Pasta with chicken liver and a dash of XO

Tagliatelle pasta served with chicken liver sauté, bacon, shallots and fresh parsley.
Photo © J E Nilsson for CMC

In my view chicken liver is a true delicatess. Its mild flavour and fine texture is likely to appeal even to those who normally are not that enthusiastic about liver. It is inexpensive and the health aspect is overwhelmingly positive.

It is also tender and usually quite fail-proof to cook, since it is done in about 3-5 minutes in a dollop of butter.

However, liver can’t be combined with everything and if you want to go beyond butter things can get ugly pretty fast.

Some additional ingredients might not go well with liver, others might be too dominating and kill off the liver flavour, making the dish pointless. Too much onion or meat cubes for example, are mortal enemies to the sophisticated aroma of tender chicken liver.

In general, safe combinations are cream and herbal spices, but here we have tried to be a bit more adventurous than that.

This dish is one of my favourites since besides containing a few surprises that makes it interesting, it shows off chicken liver from its very best side.

To serve four persons, we will need about 500 grams of pasta to this dish.

Ingredients
400 grams of chicken liver
3-4 medium sized shallots
150 grams of bacon
1 tbs dried marjory
1 handful of fresh parsley
1 cup of cream
White pepper
Salt

Preparations
Tidy up and cut each chicken liver in three parts.
Slice and dice the bacon into small pieces.
Chop the shallots
Grind the dried marjory finely in a mortar
Continue reading “Pasta and Chicken liver sauté, just XO good …”

Vanilla ice-cream served with apple cinnamon sauté

Vanilla gelato, ice-cream served with apple cinnamon marmalade

A summery dessert.
Photo © J E Nilsson for CMC, 2009

One scoop of vanilla ice-cream. On the side, one small apple sliced, diced and fried in butter, sugar, cinnamon and some breadcrumbs. Decorate with a quick drizzle of dark syrup and top off with a small leaf of mint.

By the end of last autumn, we received a large number of apples from a neighbour who had a spacious garden filled with old apple trees. Apple will store and keep over the winter if kept reasonably cold and dry. Now however, we were down to our last batch and looking at our very last three apples and we decided to celebrate them by transforming them into this wonderfully sweet and temperature cooling dessert. And besides, if looking for something Italian inspired, what could be more Italian than gelato?

A buffé with a French-Italian theme

Caprice salad with buffalo milk mozzarella, olive oil and fresh basil

Caprice salad: sun ripened tomatoes with buffalo milk mozzarella cheese
with olive oil, basil, black pepper and salt.

Photo © J E Nilsson for CMC, 2009

Planning is a big part of the fun to holding events. It’s a phase that allows you to be creative and fantasize the possibilities!

In a few weeks, we’ll be holding a dinner for friends with a French-Italian theme and thought that a lunch buffé the same day should set the stage for the evening event.

So far, we have thought that the following should be in there somehow:
Continue reading “A buffé with a French-Italian theme”