Christmas Dining in the Bay of the North Sea, Sweden






By the fireplace at Långedrags Värdshus

By the fireplace at Långedrags Värdshus, Gothenburg, Sweden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson 2023

What I find mildly amusing for julbord experience is how I often playfully break the traditional Swedish julbord dining rules. While a typical julbord is savored in a specific order, starting from cold dishes to warm ones and finally to desserts, I slightly revel in mixing all my dishes according to whim. This unorthodox approach might raise eyebrows among julbord purists, but thankfully, my friends, with whom I’ve shared many a traditional Swedish julbord, have always been patient and indulgent towards my culinary quirks. Whether it’s starting with a sweet treat or mixing savory and sweet in one plate, they understand and even appreciate my guilty pleasure of having whatever I want to eat, in whichever order I desire. This liberty to choose, to mix and match, adds an extra layer of joy to the already delightful julbord experience at Långedrags Värdshus.

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Stalking Louis Vuitton since 2006

Copenhagen, Denmark, 2023

At the historic Stork Fountain on Amagertorv, Copenhagen, Denmark.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2023

Louis Vuitton and Danish Design: An Evening Stroll Through Copenhagen’s Legacy

Copenhagen, Denmark’s vibrant capital, is not just a city of historical landmarks but also a beacon of iconic design. Renowned for its minimalist aesthetics, functionalism, and timeless appeal, Danish design has etched its mark on the global stage. Amidst this design-rich backdrop, the presence of Louis Vuitton, a brand emblematic of luxury and craftsmanship, seems complementary.

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A Glimpse into Skördefest Harvest Festival 2023 at Tjolöholmslott, Sweden

At the food truck arena at Skördefest Tjolöholmslott 2023, Sweden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

The late summer warmth was still noticeable as I walked through the grounds of Tjolöholmslott, also known as Tjolöholm Castle, during the Skördefest, or Harvest Festival of 2023.

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Sea to table: Salmon from the Faroe Islands, Denmark

Salmon from Hiddenfjörd, Faroe Islands, Denmark, topped with a sliver of dill from our garden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

It’s been a while since I’ve delved deep into the origins of the fish gracing my dinner plate. Just a few days ago, I found myself at a bustling fish wagon in west central Gothenburg, pondering my choices for the upcoming meals. The seller, noticing my indecision, pointed to a luscious-looking salmon fillet, revealing its origins from the Faroe Islands.

Aquaculture, or fish farming, has seen exponential growth over the past few decades, making it the fastest-growing sector in the global food industry. Between 1980 and 2016, the industry witnessed an average annual growth rate of 8.2 percent, and from 2000 to 2016, it was 5.8 percent [1]. Salmon, in particular, has been a standout, showcasing significant growth.

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Exploring Alkmaar: A Day at the Dutch Cheese Museum

A shop specializing in Dutch cheese, near the Cheese Museum, Alkmaar, Netherlands.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

It was a Saturday market morning in Alkmaar, and as an enthusiast of both markets and cheese, and being involved in marketing for cheese on this trip, the opportunity to explore the old cobbled tributary streets leading towards the Dutch Cheese Museum in Alkmaar, Netherlands, proved an irresistible activity. The sun was out on this day, making everything perfect for some walking.

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A Tradition of Taste and Trade: The Alkmaar Cheese Market Experience

At the Alkmaar Weigh House. The Waag building is a National monument / Rijksmonument listed building on the Waagplein in Alkmaar in the Netherlands. The Cheese Museum, Alkmaar, is also lcoated in this building.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

Introduction

The Netherlands, known for its windmills, tulips, and canals, also boasts a vibrant cheese culture that dates back centuries. This blog post is a personal journey through the history, taste, and culture of Dutch cheese, with a special focus on the city of Alkmaar, the heart of the Dutch cheese industry located in Northern Holland.

A Tradition Rooted in History

The story of Dutch cheese is a tale that dates back to the Middle Ages. It’s a narrative deeply rooted in the country’s history and traditions, and it’s impossible to tell without mentioning the Dutch East India Company, Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie or VOC for short. Established in the early 17th century, the Dutch East India Company was a major player in the global spice trade. Its ships sailed to the farthest corners of the world, bringing back a variety of spices that would eventually find their way into Dutch cheese. The integration of these exotic flavors into local produce is a testament to the Dutch’s innovative spirit and their openness to the world. It’s a reflection of their willingness to experiment and adapt, to take something familiar and make it new and exciting. This spirit of innovation is still evident in the Dutch cheese industry today, with cheese makers continually experimenting with new flavors and techniques.

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Where day meets night: Experiencing midsummer along the Swedish west coast

Swedish west coast midsummer celebrations at Strysö Sweden 2023
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

The sun casting long shadows as it flirts with the horizon, the laughter of friends and family echoing through the air, the taste of traditional Swedish food (mostly herring), and the feeling of community and love permeating the celebration. This is Midsummer on the Swedish west coast – a celebration of life, love, and the magic of the longest day of the year.

I love the longer days of summer that on midsummer’s eve, you can witness the sun teasing the horizon, refusing to fully set. It’s been just about two decades that I’ve now lived in Sweden, and I’m still enchanted by midsummer in Sweden. This captivating time, when daylight stretches into the night, is a celebration deeply rooted in Swedish culture, the celebrations of which are larger than our National Day. And where best to witness and participate in the unfolding of midsummer activities to its zenith? Why, along the scenic west coast of Sweden, of course!

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Grilled duck breasts with Peking Duck marinade: A Scandinavian summer grilling adventure

Evening grill at Strysö Sweden 2023
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

Even during the cooler Nordic summers when temperatures occasionally dip to 5°C, the lure of the grill remains irresistible. With the lingering twilight offering extended hours of daylight, every moment is an opportunity to ignite the grill and dive into a world of tantalizing tastes. Recently, we embarked on a delectable culinary expedition, blending four distinct recipes to create a sumptuous grilled duck breast dish with a Peking Duck marinade.

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A spring madeleine de Proust with Scottish shortbread

An Easter bake of shortbread biscuit topped with vanilla custard and blueberries.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2023

My mother used to love Scottish shortbread when she was in her teens and early twenties, and it is still a convenient off-the-shelf item that can be bought in almost any grocery store in Singapore today. Her love for shortbread biscuits meant that I had plenty of them growing up, and I grew to love them for their rich flavor and crumbly texture. I would often eat them on their own, even if there was tea served alongside.

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Specialty coffee and Beijing’s hutongs: A cultural fusion of East and West in China, 2023

V7 Coffee, serving fantastic specialty coffee in Haidian district, Beijing, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson & E Sindhöj 2023

Having had the privilege of visiting Beijing on numerous occasions, I remain drawn to the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, despite the staggering modernization that has transformed this great city. The Palace’s imposing gates and striking red pavilions situated at the heart of Beijing never fail to impress me. Equally fascinating to me is the network of narrow streets and low houses surrounding the Forbidden City, known as “Hutongs.” Once the living quarters of those who worked in the palace, some Hutongs have been converted into commercial areas, while others remain residential neighborhoods.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties these quarters served as a mental relief to the even the highest ranked individuals inside the Forbidden City. Some eunuchs played a role in facilitating visits by imperial court members even to pleasure houses outside of the Forbidden City. These illicit visits were seen as a way for court members to escape the rigid protocols and constraints of palace life.

Even the Emperor Guangxu (1875-1908) sought help for his medical problems from those among the Hutongs that practiced traditional Chinese medicine towards the end of the Qing dynasty. It is said that his great-aunt, the Empress Dowager Cixi, repeatedly tried to poison him due to irrevocable differences in their ideas about the future of China. In 1908 they eventually both died. The Guangxu emperor one day before Cixi, poisoned by arsenic.

With this in mind I set out to visit this maze of winding small roads and gray buildings in the area around the Forbidden City in late February 2023.

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