Aboard the Götheborg III: 75 Years of Sweden–China Friendship

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Photo & Text by JE Nilsson, CM Cordeiro © 2025

Sweden and China at 75: A Legacy of Dialogue and Trade Aboard the Götheborg III

On May 9, 2025, history met the present aboard the Götheborg III, as dignitaries, guests, and officials gathered to commemorate the 75th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Sweden and China. Hosted by the Chinese Consulate General in Gothenburg, the celebration honored a milestone of peaceful engagement and forward-looking cooperation between two nations bound by both legacy and ambition.

The Significance of the Götheborg III

The Götheborg III is far more than a historic replica. It is a fully functioning reconstruction of the 18th-century Swedish East Indiaman that sailed to China as part of the country’s early trade network. The original ship returned from China in 1745 but tragically sank just outside the Gothenburg harbour. Her modern twin now sails as a floating tribute to centuries of cultural exchange and cooperation, linking Sweden and China across time. Continue reading “Aboard the Götheborg III: 75 Years of Sweden–China Friendship” →

Reflections from the Forbidden City: The 2005 Swedish Exhibition of Chinese Porcelain

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Standing with Jan-Erik Nilsson and Professor Geng Baoshang

Standing with Jan-Erik Nilsson and Professor Geng Baoshang. Meeting with Professor Geng Baoshang—well known for his profound writings and scholarship on Chinese Imperial porcelain—was one of the high points of the opening ceremony, though it took place outside of the official program.

Throwback to 2005: A Day at the Forbidden City

When I began writing this blog in 2007, I had no idea how much of it would become a space for archiving quiet moments from projects, events, and travels. One memory that surfaces often is from September 2005, when I had the opportunity to attend and contribute to the Swedish Exhibition of Chinese Porcelain at the Palace Museum in Beijing. It was my first time in Beijing, and my first time visiting The Forbidden City.

The exhibition was held in the Wumen Hall, directly above the Meridian Gate of the Forbidden City—a space once reserved for imperial edicts and ceremonial events. It remains one of the most remarkable venues I’ve ever stepped into – the vastness of its architecture was breathtaking.

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A Day in Wuchang: Street Food, Coffee, and Culture

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Wuchang District, Wuhan, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, E. Sindhøj 2025




Wuchang District in Wuhan, China, is a vibrant blend of history and modernity, where sprawling urban landscapes meet charming cultural pockets. Renowned for its bustling markets, contemporary architecture, and rich heritage, Wuhan offers an immersive urban experience filled with culinary delights. On this particular day, we decided to take an afternoon off work to explore Wuchang, soaking in its energy and flavors.

Afternoon Strolls: Exploring the Streets

We began our day by wandering through some of Wuchang’s most popular spots for both tourists and locals. The streets were lined with numerous small shops, offering a variety of goods and services. Food vendors were plentiful, proudly presenting their freshly prepared specialties, from steaming buns to skewers sizzling over open flames. These streets felt alive, not only with the enticing aroma of food but also with the chatter of families, couples, and friends enjoying their meals.

The district’s architecture complemented the vibrancy of its streets. Emerging from large intersections, we found ourselves in narrower lanes near Hubu Alley, where the energy was electric with food vendors and shoppers. The thoughtful urban planning, with its wide roads and inviting public spaces, made exploring these areas an absolute pleasure.

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Changchun Temple: A Blend of History, Spirituality, and Modern Energy

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Changchun Temple, Wuhan, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, E. Sindhøj 2025

Changchun Temple in Wuhan is undeniably one of the city’s most scenic spots—a harmonious fusion of history, spirituality, and natural beauty. Located on the southern slope of Double Peak Hill in the Wuchang District, this Taoist temple holds a significant place in Chinese history and culture. It is revered as one of the ten famous Taoist sanctuaries and a blessed place south of the Yangtze River. Continue reading “Changchun Temple: A Blend of History, Spirituality, and Modern Energy” →

Specialty coffee and Beijing’s hutongs: A cultural fusion of East and West in China, 2023

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V7 Coffee, serving fantastic specialty coffee in Haidian district, Beijing, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson & E Sindhöj 2023

Having had the privilege of visiting Beijing on numerous occasions, I remain drawn to the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, despite the staggering modernization that has transformed this great city. The Palace’s imposing gates and striking red pavilions situated at the heart of Beijing never fail to impress me. Equally fascinating to me is the network of narrow streets and low houses surrounding the Forbidden City, known as “Hutongs.” Once the living quarters of those who worked in the palace, some Hutongs have been converted into commercial areas, while others remain residential neighborhoods.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties these quarters served as a mental relief to the even the highest ranked individuals inside the Forbidden City. Some eunuchs played a role in facilitating visits by imperial court members even to pleasure houses outside of the Forbidden City. These illicit visits were seen as a way for court members to escape the rigid protocols and constraints of palace life.

Even the Emperor Guangxu (1875-1908) sought help for his medical problems from those among the Hutongs that practiced traditional Chinese medicine towards the end of the Qing dynasty. It is said that his great-aunt, the Empress Dowager Cixi, repeatedly tried to poison him due to irrevocable differences in their ideas about the future of China. In 1908 they eventually both died. The Guangxu emperor one day before Cixi, poisoned by arsenic.

With this in mind I set out to visit this maze of winding small roads and gray buildings in the area around the Forbidden City in late February 2023.

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Beijing, where tradition meets innovation

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One of my favourite city sights of Beijing, China, the CCTV Headquaters. Located in the Beijing Central Business District, this stunning 51 storied skysraper on East Third Ring Road was awarded the 2013 Best Tall Building Worldwide from the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & E Sindhöj 2023

My last visit to China was in 2019, to the cities of Shanghai, and Chengdu. Shanghai, located on the eastern coast of China, is the country’s largest city and a global financial hub and easily one of my favourite cities in China to visit. The city has a modern, cosmopolitan vibe, with glass walled skyscrapers, luxury shopping malls, and a trendy nightlife. Evening walks along the Bund and day time walks around the French Concession, offer glimpses into the city’s colonial past. Chengdu, located in southwest China, is memorable for its more relaxed city vibes and lifestyle, spicy cuisine, and adorable giant pandas. I have written about dining at its many traditional tea houses, meandering through its parks, and contemplating the symbolic architecture of its temples.

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A walk through scenic Kuanzhaixiangzi Alley, Chengdu, China 2019

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At Kuanzhaixiangzi Alley, Chengdu, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2019

I was expecting a Yuyuan street experience like that of Shanghai 2011, when I thought to visit Kuanzhaixiangzi Alley in Chengdu, China. But this was a different adventure of sorts. Cozy yet vibrant, visitors are greeted with beautiful architecture throughout the alleys. Located in proximity to Tianfu Square and Renmin Park a taxi ride will take just about ten minutes to Kuanzhaixiangzi Alley and what I think is one of the more scenic (historic-) urban areas in Chengdu.

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Chengdu by night, China 2019

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Night scene at the intersection of Shangdong Street and Chunxi Road, Chengdu, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2019

According to a World Economic Forum 2019 [1] article Chengdu is among 10 cities that the UN predicts will break the 10 million mark by 2030, bringing the global number of megacities to 43. About 55% of global population live in urban areas today, compared to the less than one-third of the global population living in urban areas in 1950. In one generation to come, the proportion of people living in cities is expected to grow by 68%, adding to our current already crowded cities.

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Morning skyline in Shanghai, China 2019

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Morning skyline in March 2019, Shanghai, China.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2019

I’ve often written that landing in Shanghai, China, feels as if I were coming back home. If there was a city in China that I have visited the most, it would be Shanghai. Between 2010 and 2014, I found myself almost annually in Shanghai for various work and study visits. It’s been about five years since I was in Shanghai and expectedly, the city has developed some, a morphing burgeon of its 1920s and 1930s personality from Paris of the East unto its own. I do not know how else to describe other than, it is, Shanghai, lacking nothing.

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Tea house and temple, Chengdu

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Served in the tea house, across the road from the Manjushri Monastery, Chengdu.
Text & Photo © JE Nilsson, CM Cordeiro, Sweden 2015

The grounds of the Zhaojue Temple and the Manjushri Monastery are vast. In both temple grounds, one could easily make a small pilgrimage, pit stopping at the numerous separate buildings housing separate halls for different prayer or contemplation purposes. Continue reading “Tea house and temple, Chengdu” →