Doctoral Thesis, public defense May 9th, 2009

Disputation Göteborgs Universitet. Cheryl Marie Cordeiro, Kirsten Jaeger, Aalborg

Waiting for the public defence session to begin. The Opponent and main examiner was Associate Professor Kirsten Jaeger from Aalborg Univeristy, Denmark.
Photo for CMC: JE Nilsson and David Neikter Nilsson © 2009

One of the things that have dawned on me during the years I have spent working on my thesis is that writing a doctoral thesis and having it approved are done for various reasons, and thus approached in many different ways around the world.

One reason for people to pursue a PhD is to obtain a final, formal confirmation of their status as an expert in their own lifelong field of work. In northern Europe, you can research and write a PhD thesis alongside your full-time occupation, and there is no real rush to it. If it takes ten years or more, it does not really matter. That the time taken to write a PhD thesis is secondary to the quality of the thesis is very much emphasized here in Sweden, and these values are reflected in the average time to complete a PhD in Scandinavia, which is 10 to 14 years, without anyone batting an eyelid.

A more common reason for pursuing a PhD is in preparation to your academic career in your particular field of interest. This is mostly done at the university where you’ve received your basic training, by adding a research education on top of what you have already done in your undergraduate days. This is a quicker way and you follow the methods of the professor you have already been studying under.

Personally, I have a passion for research and pursued a PhD because I wanted to become a research specialist in a field of my own choice and one that I have pioneered myself out of pure interest, which is to study Scandinavian management / leadership in Asia, in particular in Singapore. I also wanted to use the two qualitative methods of grounded theory and systemics linguistics as analysis tools on business administration matters, while most other studies on management have thus far favoured quantitative methods.

Having come from a mostly Anglo-Saxon education background, I have also sped through, the best I could, the Nordic education system with 6 years doing my PhD, that included a year as a ‘visiting student’, the time spent learning Swedish as a third language, the sporadically offered compulsory PhD courses for all doctoral students and the writing of the thesis.

I actually saw this entire process as something quite enjoyable. To be able to dig into tens and thousands of words and numbers, get them into order and eventually start seeing them form into patterns of meaning and information, is actually fun. I realize this might finally position me as a true blue ‘nerd’, but so be it.

PhD Public Defence session

Protocols for PhD public defence sessions in Scandinavia vary according to which traditions the institution follows. Some universities in Finland are amusingly conservative, so much so that one can almost see how doctoral public defences were conducted during the Medieval times, while universities in Denmark can be quite modern and informal. Swedish traditions are somewhere in-between.

Disputation, Arkeologen, G&teborgs Universitet.

All in all, around thirty persons made it to the event last Saturday. Considering this was during a spring weekend, I was impressed and happy to see so many attending the disputation instead of setting up barbecue in their gardens or pretty much doing anything else at all.

The procedure during my defence session in Sweden began with the Chairman opening the session by introducing the participants, which were the Candidate (myself) and the Opponent, in this case, Associate Professor Kirsten Jaeger from Aalborg University, Denmark, who was also the main examiner in the examination committee.

Next step was for the Chairman to ask the Candidate if there were any additions or corrections to the text. Most candidates will have an “errata” list that would now be added to the thesis. This is important if there are any significant mistakes in the paper, for example, if the word ”not” was left out in the main conclusion.

Continue reading “Doctoral Thesis, public defense May 9th, 2009”

Academic traditions: the Nailing of the Thesis, April 17, 2009

Nailing the thesis at University of Gothenburg, Sweden

Nailing the thesis at University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Photo for CMC © Jan-Erik Nilsson 2009.

When I was told that I was supposed to “nail” my thesis to the University wall, it initially didn’t occur to me that I was supposed to do so literally and in person, with a hammer.

But so it went.

A University tradition since Medieval times
In the West, universities developed as centres for research and higher learning as we know them today around the 11th to 13th century when it became obvious that the old cathedral schools were no longer adequate.

A fully developed medieval university had four faculties of which the theological was the most important. Then came law and medicine, while philosophy was a preparation in the ‘seven liberal arts’ such as math and rhetoric etc. that you needed to clear before entering the higher levels.

In 1517 Martin Luther nailed his ’95 Theses’
Looking back at the traditions of the European universities, there is surprisingly little written on academic traditions. As for “nailings”, what comes to mind if something is the famous occasion when in 1517, Martin Luther nailed his 95 theses to the door of the All Saints’ Castle Church in Wittenberg.

In most stories about this event, it has appeared as if the nailing in itself was a unique act of rebellion, to draw attention to his protests, but personally, I think what he did was to follow an academic tradition of publicly announcing his “theses”, which in Greek means “position”, and more or less invited others to discuss this at the Wittenberg University where he was a Professor in Theology.

That the nailing of the theses by Martin Luther was in academic spirit and inclination appears all the more likely since in 1502, the All Saints’ church served as an annexe and a chapel to the University of Wittenberg. The church was the place where university students were awarded their doctorates and it would have been a place where the general public would weekly (or even daily) frequent in those times.
Continue reading “Academic traditions: the Nailing of the Thesis, April 17, 2009”

Purple proper, to the “spikning” or nailing of the thesis

At Repro Centralen of Göteborgs Universitet, University of Gothenburg, Sweden

At the printing shop of Göteborgs Universitet to collect copies of my thesis. Purple wool dress by Warehouse and black patent flats by Prada.

It was to be a small academic ceremony today where I collected my thesis from the printers and have one copy nailed to the public notice board of the University of Gothenburg. The spikning or the nailing of the thesis is for two main reasons, the first of which is to encourage the public to read your work and the second, perhaps more important reason, is to show that your work hasn’t been plagiarized.

Design in dress and colours on outfits have always been important factors in my life. When choosing junior colleges in Singapore, I remember how all my other classmates chose their junior colleges based on entry grades and proximity to the home. I chose my junior college based on its uniform. So I ended up at Victoria Junior College in Singapore, second highest ranked after Raffles Junior College at that time, with its beige coloured unifrom accented with a deep wine coloured belt. And I felt perfectly fine about it. I thought a neutral beige would help my mind relax in its notoriously competitive school environment and the deep burgundy wine just happens to be one of my favourite colours of all time.

Spikning, nailing the thesis to the notice board for the public at the University of Gothenburg

Nailing the thesis to the public notice board at Göteborgs Universitet.

The ceremony consisted of drilling a hole at the corner of my 554 paged thesis and putting a nail through that, onto the notice board at the University of Gothenburg. A champagne bottle was popped and served in celebration, and as a thank you for the group who had joined in for this happy event.

In dress, I opted for a 60s looking purple sheath dress from Warehouse with a boat neck and capped sleeves, since it had clean lines and turned quite chic when paired with dark grey wool tights and a pair of black patent Prada flats.
Continue reading “Purple proper, to the “spikning” or nailing of the thesis”

PhD thesis Acknowledgements, 2009

My PhD thesis, entitled Swedish management in Singapore: a discourse analysis study (2009) will be printed within the week. In this post, I’d like to share with you the Acknowledgements section of my thesis. This section tells briefly, the story of how the PhD thesis began and the individuals who helped me put it together.

More about my PhD thesis can be found at cherylmariecordeiro.com. The public defense of the thesis will take place on Saturday, the 9th of May, 2009 at 10:00 hrs, Room T302, Arkeologen, Olof Wijksgatan 6, Gothenburg, Sweden.

The Invite to the thesis will be posted on my website shortly.

Acknowledgements

Photo for CMC © Kevin Dominic Cordeiro 2009.

Cheryl Marie Cordeiro by Kevin Dominic Cordeiro, Kranji, Singapore

My PhD years at the University of Gothenburg and this thesis has had mentorship from numerous outstanding individuals both from within the university and outside of it. It is to these individuals, including the Scandinavian and Asian respondents that took part in my study, that my heartfelt gratitude and thanks go out to, for without their help, this thesis would not have seen its ISBN number.

First and foremost I would like to thank my parents Rita and Adrian Cordeiro and my brother Kevin, who through my childhood and study career had always encouraged me to follow my heart and inquisitive mind in any direction this took me. My parents provided me with a loving home, one where an academic mind was celebrated, and Kevin’s sharp sense of humour has been a gift in my life. If we ever had a family motto that would have been – If there’s a will, there’s a way – a philosophy of life I have been carrying with me every day.

I grew up in the Republic of Singapore. The history of this city state is not older than that I have followed much of its development myself, from its modest situation after its separation from Malaysia in 1965 towards becoming a small but modern state, with its gross domestic product (GDP) per capita ranking among the highest in the world. Singapore has accomplished this and several other milestones without basically any natural resources. In fact, Singapore does not even have enough natural freshwater resources to sustain its own population. I could not help but ask myself, how did Singapore make all this possible?

Singapore is also multi-cultural and multi-religious, as such, there was often some kind of celebration going on somewhere. The cultural beliefs and obligations were legion. My school- and classmates were Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians and Arabs etc, all living as far as I could tell, happily together. As I grew up, I was surprised to understand that this was not always the case in many other places of the world. Here again, I could not help but ask, how does Singapore handle the multi-faceted social fabric of its society?

Later, during my university years and while studying towards two separate Masters degrees I got to notice that there were many foreigners coming to Singapore to set up and run Asian market head offices. Among those were many Swedish organizations. It was obvious to me that these foreign companies were part of the what made Singapore a successful business hub.

Eventually my inquiring mind put me in contact with Jan-Erik Nilsson in Sweden who, being one of the founding fathers of the Swedish East Indiaman Gotheborg III ship project, had a lot of thoughts on this subject.

It was our discussions around the peaceful and profitable historical Swedish – Asian trade adventures of days gone by and its modern continuation in Singapore that eventually led to the beginnings of this PhD thesis.

Continue reading “PhD thesis Acknowledgements, 2009”

Fashion: an expression of Hegelian geist

Oyster Dress by Alexander McQueen for S/S 2003. Ivory silk chiffon and silk organza.

I’ve been revisiting Adressing Fashion by the Metropolitcan Museum of Art (the avatar to the left will bring you to the MM’s website) and have picked out my favourite pieces from the their exhibition, to write about in this post. This is a subconscious streaming of thoughts, as it were, back on my favourite ponder on fashion, its connection to language, inspiration, geist and towards an understanding of a people.

My favourite pieces from this exhibit were the ones with a fuller silhouette, with soft flowing volume; their diaphanous design and characteristic, bordering on the ethereal. Even the ash grey of Theyskens piece below, with tones of grey darker than that of Badgley Mischka’s on Sarah J. Parker didn’t pull down my spirits or enthusiasm for the dress.

Evening dress by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci, S/S 2007 in steel grey crinkled silk organza.

I’ve always thought fashion and personal style as a broad language of sorts. Looking at how the various designers expressed themselves in their pieces and how clothing changed with the times, the pieces in this exhibition called to mind Lars Svendsen’s philosophical take on fashion in his book, Fashion: a Philosophy. Svendsen (2006:64ff) didn’t quite agree with Lurie (1983) when she wrote that clothing was language. He was rather more convinced of Barthe’s (1967) theorizing on fashion as a system, paralleling that of Saussure’s signifier and the signified. I haven’t as yet read Lurie’s (1983) work but in light of Kress and van Leeuwen’s (1996) work on The Grammar of Visual Design, perhaps a more concrete theory on the grammar of clothing isn’t too far away?

As fashion today is so diffused in culture, the grammar of clothing and thus clothing as a concrete language is difficult to assume diachronically. Fashion is studied diachronically, most of the time with regards to their transformation, perhaps as a commentary on the life and times of the people, “an immediate expression of our zeitgeist” as the Met Museum has it. What for example, could have expressed a certain meaning for a sub-culture, is today more diffused. High heels in the late-1800s associated with street walkers for example, are today standard office wear for most women. And most people today would gawk at the thought of one equating wearing high heels solely with prostitution purposes (which tangently reminds me in this instant, of the song Free Your Mind, by En Vogue).

For Halliday (1994, and almost all works from the 1960s ff), the system of language and meaning making is a conscious choice of words, people choose what they want to say it and how to say it, to fit the context. I think that point of view can be broadly associated with the fashion system. The fashion system, in designing and building up a wardrobe within one’s limits and means, is also a choice. It is a choice of textiles, textures, cut, silhouette, colour, function etc. Synchronically, perhaps fashion is an expression of personal spirit, as defined closest to Hegel’s geist.

Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993). A hand-pleated silk jersey dress by Grés herself, from 1971.

The work of Madame Grés (1903-1993) was part of this exhibition and she is to me, the epitome of self-expression in clothing design and manufacture. A tragic biography to behold, Grés reached the peaks and depths of the fashion industry. A legend already in her time with a Golden Thimble award in 1976, she passed on without word and in poverty in 1993.

Madame Grès silk jersey draped evening gown, c.1945. Picture from Vintage Textile.

Grés was a sculptress at heart and in training. In her 50 years or so as atelier, her designs shifted not with the raveling fashion trends of the time, but towards a concretion of a greater sense of personal style, personal achievement and perfection of her technique.

In light of Grés, I see many out there who use fashion as an immediate expression of personal style and spirit. From designers such as Westwood, McQueen and Galliano to individuals on the street who use current trends to their own understanding and purposes. Even those who are uncomfortable with being ‘fashionable’ haven’t missed a beat, as Stella Blum has observed,

Fashion is so close in revealing a person’s inner feelings and everybody seems to hate to lay claim to vanity so people tend to push it away. It’s really too close to the quick of the soul.

And so it goes that to understand a person or a people’s history, in addition to the study of events, language, culture and architecture, one would do well to include a study of the people’s sense of style, their choice of clothing for a particular era or period of time in order to understand their history, their lifestyle. Perhaps likewise in getting to know an individual.

Adressing Fashion in blog format is now closed, and I hope the Met Museum will have more of such showing formats in future, since it allows for an international audience to view and comment on the pieces on exhibit.

References

  • Barthes, Roland, 1967. The Fashion System. Translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard. Published again in 1983 and 1990. New York: Hill and Wang.
  • Halliday, M.A.K, 1994. An Introduction to Functional Grammar. London: Edward Arnold.
  • Kress, Gunther and van Leeuwen, Theo, 1996. Reading Images: the grammar of visual design. London, New York: Routledge.
  • Lurie, Alison, 1983. The Language of Clothes. New York: Vintage Books.
  • Svendsen, Lars, 2006. Fashion: a philosophy. Translated by John Irons. London: Reaktion Books Ltd.

The evolutionizing concept of luxury goods

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Scarlett Johansson for Louis Vuitton, featuring the That’s Love collection of bags

The definitions of luxury

Luxury is an extensive concept which connects with extravagance, prestige and elitism (Dubois and Czellar, 2002). Some standard dictionary definitions of luxury could include:

  • Something inessential but conducive to pleasure and comfort.
  • Something expensive or hard to obtain.
  • Sumptuous living or surroundings: lives in luxury.

One could see how the above three definitions found in the American Heritage Dictionary, are intertwined and difficult to separate. A very broad definition of what is luxury, from Coco Chanel reflects this interlacing of definitions to form a concept of luxury: “Luxury is a necessity that begins when necessity ends” (Gradvall, 2007). Continue reading “The evolutionizing concept of luxury goods”

The sexualizing of men in ads

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So we’ve all heard about women as sex objects in advertisements, movies, music videos etc., and how even women begin to look at women through the eyes of men, thanks to the caressing pan of the camera in movies, over women’s bodies etc. The institutionalizing of the sexes, of what is ‘real’ and of what is ‘normal’ (1971, Berger & Luckmann). Continue reading “The sexualizing of men in ads”

Dolce & Gabanna: Lets do street violence in style?

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A banned D&G advertisement for Fall/Winter 2006.

In today’s Stockholm newspaper DN is an interesting article on redefining luxury, it’s changing premises and its spreading to the middle class rather than being exclusive to the “absurdly affluent”. I can’t help seeing the new D&G advertising for their latest collection in this light. It is quite obvious that they are trying to reach a different crowd than those who bought the original LV bags of the 1920s and crossed the Atlantic twice a year to spend the summer season in France, so much is clear. Continue reading “Dolce & Gabanna: Lets do street violence in style?”

A critical think: the James Watson DNA debate

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Photo: Edmond Terakopian/PA

I’ve read in the past few days, the following three news articles on James Watson. The 79 year old is a Nobel Prize winner (1962) and has served for 50 years as a director of the Cold Spring Harbour Laboratory on Long Island. He is considered a world leader in research into cancer and genetics. What I write in this post is based on these three articles I’ve thus read. Continue reading “A critical think: the James Watson DNA debate”

A diamond skull is forever

Damien Hirst’s diamond studded skull

British artist Damien Hirst revealed his latest work of art at the White Cube Gallery in London, June 1, 2007. “For the Love of God” is a life-size cast of a human skull in platinum and covered by 8,601 pave-set diamonds weighing 1,106.18 carats. The single large diamond in the middle of the forehead is a 52.4 carat internally flawless, light, fancy pink, brilliant-cut diamond reportedly worth $4.2 million alone. Hirst financed the project himself, and estimates it cost between 10 and 15 million. The price tag was $99 million. The platinum plates were hand-lasered with thousands of holes and the diamonds, which have a total weight of 1,106.18 carats, were individually set.

When I first saw this skull I went through a myriad of reactions that went something like:

WOW! What a fantastic thing!

Oooh! How HORRID!

buuuuut…Interesting.

COOOOOL!

Well, my thoughts needed to do a really long walking to come to that fourth observation of it being cool. The obvious in-your-face impression of this piece of art, is of course that the skull as an age old Vanitas symbol that Nothing is Forever, combined with the De Beer diamond slogan that Diamonds, are Forever, Hirst manages to add some kind of cynical humour to the combination “Death, is Forever, too”.

How cool is that.

Then I started to wonder, is that observation really worth £50 million?

My mind started to ponder a much wider circle. Looking some into this I found that the original “perfectly shaped skull” had been sourced from a taxidermy shop, with an analysis suggesting that it had probably belonged to a European man who died in his mid-thirties in the 18th or early 19th century.

But don’t those teeth awfully “fresh” to be from an 18th century skull?

vanitas.jpg

A really old skull. The painting “Vanitas” by, Pieter Claesz (1597-1661).

It suddenly dawned on me that I had seen such a “fresh” looking skull once before, at the desk of an engineer who designed dental equipment. “Is this plastic?”, I asked. “No, it’s the real thing” he answered and explained that it actually came from the first World War battle fields in the Flanders. They were popular with dental clinics because the soldiers had been so young and healthy when they died, that their teeth were perfect, “Look Ma, no cavities!”.

Of course this was just my mind wandering, but then again I had just been forced – due to a lack of alternatives – to read an article about a specifically bloody battle in an obscure village in Belgium, called Passchendaele. It lasted some 100 days in the autumn of 1917. And when it ended, a total of 325,000 Allied and 260,000 German young men had died, achieving nothing.
Continue reading “A diamond skull is forever”