Hummersupé 2024 Donsö Sweden

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At the year’s lobster dinner event, Hummersupé 2024, at Isbolaget Restaurang, Donsö, Sweden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2024

There are moments in life that feel almost too exceptional to put into words, and this weekend’s Hummersupé 2024 at Isbolaget Restaurant, Donsö, was exactly that—a magical blend of a stunning sunset, quiet and warm interiors, and a sumptuous culinary experience that makes evenings like this unforgettable.

I’ve lived on the island of Styrsö since 2002, when I first arrived in Gothenburg, Sweden. Donsö is the neighboring island, connected to Styrsö by a bridge. In the early 2000s, we used to sail to Donsö, just for the fun of summer boating, grab an ice cream from the local shops, and turn around to head back home. The southern Gothenburg archipelago is home to me, and these islands will always hold a special place in my heart. It’s a place where the open ocean wraps around smooth, rocky coastlines, creating a serene setting that feels worlds away from the hustle of everyday city life.

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Surströmmingfest in Karlstad, Sweden

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In Karlstad for a surströmmingfest.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2024

Surströmming: A Traditional Swedish Delicacy

Surströmming is a traditional Swedish delicacy made from Baltic herring that undergoes fermentation. The word surströmming is derived from “sur” (meaning sour or acidic) and “strömming” (the local term for Baltic herring). Historically, this process was a practical solution for preserving fish with minimal salt, particularly during times when salt was scarce. It originated from the need for efficient food preservation before refrigeration existed, making it an essential staple in Swedish households.

Strategic with the use of a kitchen towel as cover.

The Production Process

The production process involves catching Baltic herring just before spawning in early summer, lightly salting them, and fermenting the fish in barrels for several weeks. After the initial fermentation, the herring are canned, and the fermentation continues in the sealed container. This creates gases, resulting in the characteristic bulging of the can—a hallmark of surströmming and the source of its infamous odor, caused by compounds such as hydrogen sulfide, butyric acid, and propionic acid.

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Lithuania’s Culinary Landscape: A Market Journey

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You know you’re back in Sweden, along the Swedish west coast when you have that quintessential räksallad.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2024

Lithuanian food culture, shaped by its history and geography, places a strong emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients. Root vegetables, grains, and meats are at the heart of the cuisine. While dishes like cepelinai (potato dumplings) and šaltibarščiai (cold beet soup) reflect the influence of neighbouring Poland, Russia, and Germany, they retain a distinctly Lithuanian character, often incorporating traditional techniques like fermentation, pickling, and smoking.

For Nordic travellers, Lithuania offers a blend of familiarity and novelty. The widespread use of rye bread, dairy, and hearty ingredients may feel comforting and familiar, yet the Lithuanian approach to preparing and pairing these ingredients—such as using Varškės Sūris (a type of farmer’s cheese) in both sweet and savoury dishes—adds a unique twist. It’s an experience that invites you to discover something new amidst the familiar, with Lithuanian hospitality and a love for simple yet flavourful food making the trip memorable.

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Donsö Hamnfest and ÖTILLÖ Gothenburg – August 2024 at Styrsö

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Checking out the local artwork at Donsö Hamnfest, 3 Aug. 2024, Sweden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & , JE Nilsson 2024

As the warmth of late summer settles over Gothenburg’s southern archipelago, the much-anticipated Donsö Hamnfest and the challenging ÖTILLÖ Gothenburg Swimrun had come together to create a weekend filled with family fun, breathtaking scenery, and impressive athletic feats.

Donsö Hamnfest: A Family Affair

The Donsö Hamnfest, a long-standing summer tradition, once again offered the joyful experience that has endeared it to so many. Families gathered at the harbor to engage in a wide range of activities designed to entertain all ages. From inflatable slides and bounce houses to classic carnival games like ring toss and can knockdowns, there was no shortage of fun. The culinary offerings were equally enticing, with choices ranging from freshly made pizzettes and BBQ burgers to the ever-popular ice cream stands. For those seeking a break from the summer heat, the local café provided a cool sanctuary where visitors could sip iced tea and enjoy sweet treats in a relaxed setting.

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Helsingborgs Konst- & Antikmässa 2024: A Vernissage

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Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & JE Nilsson 2024

As the summer sun graces the charming coastal city of Helsingborg, Sweden, it brings with it one of the most anticipated events of the year – Helsingborgs Konst- & Antikmässa. This year, the fair promises to be even more special as it celebrates its 60th anniversary, marking six decades of showcasing exquisite antiques and fine art. Held from July 25 to 28 at the modern Helsingborg Arena, the fair is not just an event but an experience that blends history, culture, and a passion for the finer things in life.

A Memorable Vernissage Event

I had the pleasure of attending the Vernissage event, which took place on the evening of July 24, just before the fair officially opened. The Vernissage is an exclusive preview event, providing a first look at the stunning array of antiques and art pieces on display. The atmosphere was electric with excitement as collectors, dealers, and enthusiasts gathered to admire and discuss the carefully curated exhibits.

The evening began with a welcoming speech by the fair organizers, highlighting the fair’s rich history and its significance in the world of antiques. Champagne flowed, and elegant hors d’oeuvres were served, adding a touch of sophistication to the event. The Vernissage provided an intimate setting to engage with the exhibitors, who were eager to share the stories behind their treasured items.

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Discovering the Peranakan Culture: A Journey Through Singapore’s Peranakan Museum

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Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & JE Nilsson 2024

Introduction to the Peranakan Community

The term “Peranakan” in Singapore today often denotes individuals of mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage, a legacy tracing back to the 15th century. The origins of the Peranakan people are deeply rooted in Malacca, where Chinese traders are believed to have married local women. This community has been known by various names, including the Straits Chinese, born in the Straits Settlements, and the King’s Chinese, reflecting their status as British subjects after 1867.

A Tapestry of Cultures

Interestingly, the term “Peranakan,” meaning “uterus” or “someone from a mixed marriage,” isn’t exclusive to the Chinese Peranakans. There were also non-Chinese Peranakans, including the Bugis, Arab, and Java Peranakans, as well as the Peranakan Indians (Chitty Melaka) and the Jawi Peranakans, who are of mixed Indian and Malay heritage. These communities highlight the diverse and rich tapestry of Peranakan culture.

Peranakan culture is usually described as a hybrid of Chinese, Malay and Western cultures. While specific cultural practices and customs may differ from generation to generation and family to family, there are a few elements common to Peranakan culture. One such element is the language. Besides English, the Peranakans speak baba Malay, a patois described as an adulteration of the Malay language with a liberal mix of Hokkien words and phrases.

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Exploring the Rich Tapestry of Asia at the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore

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Asian Civilization Museum (ACM), Singapore.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro & JE Nilsson 2024

The Easter weekend provided the perfect opportunity to take a few days off from Sweden and land in Singapore to spend time with my parents and catch up with good friends. All days in Singapore over the week of the Easter weekend were memorable, but the visits to the Asian Civilization Museum (ACM) and the Peranakan Museum stood out as highlights of our visit back to Singapore.

Singapore is known as the city that never sleeps. Yet, some of the more serene hours of the day can be found right at the heart of the central business district of Singapore, just before dawn when the sun begins to peek from the horizon.

In Singapore, visitors are genuinely spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodation, with options to suit varying preferences for location and proximity to popular spots. If you prefer the heart of the business district, then The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia, situated in the bustling Marina Bay area, is one of many accommodations around the area. It’s conveniently close to major attractions like the Singapore Flyer and Marina Square Shopping Mall, both within a 5-minute stroll. The hotel is also just a short walk from iconic locations such as Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay. With the Promenade MRT station nearby, exploring the city is a breeze. The hotel’s location combines convenience with the luxury of being in one of the city’s most dynamic neighborhoods. And the morning quiet even on a busy Easter weekend at the Ritz Carlton? Absolutely perfect for this introvert.

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By the Motlawa River, the Old Town in Gdansk Poland

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Old Town, Gdansk, Poland.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2024

My journey in Gdansk, Poland, began in the heart of the Old Town, where I stayed along the picturesque Motlawa River. The riverfront’s charm, with its historic buildings and serene waters, served as a perfect backdrop for my few days’ getaway. A walk along the riverside is a journey through the city’s heart, offering stunning views of Gdansk’s architecture. The tranquility of the river is a pleasant contrast to the bustling Old Town. If I thought the riverside was reminiscent of Boat Quay and Clarke Quay in Singapore, there was good reason. Continue reading “By the Motlawa River, the Old Town in Gdansk Poland” →

Ahlströms Konditori: A Century-Old Tradition and the Allure of Semla Season

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Variations of the semla at Ahlströms Konditori, Gothenburg, Sweden.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro, JE Nilsson 2024

In the vibrant heart of Gothenburg lies Ahlströms Konditori, a revered institution since 1901. Renowned for capturing the essence of Swedish baking traditions, the café becomes a focal point as it welcomes the semla season, especially with Fettisdagen (Fat Tuesday) approaching on February 13, 2024. Here, the semla is not just a seasonal treat; it’s a culinary emblem of Swedish heritage, celebrated by locals and visitors alike.

The Swedish semla, distinct from its European counterparts, is a testament to simplicity and quality. Known for its cardamom-spiced wheat bun, each semla is meticulously crafted. The bun, with its top artfully cut off, is filled with a rich blend of milk and almond paste, and then crowned with a generous dollop of whipped cream. The cut-off top, serving as a lid, is delicately dusted with powdered sugar, completing this exquisite pastry.

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Exploring the Heart of Kaunas: Laisves Aleja, Lithuania

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At Laisves Aleja, Kaunas, Lithuania.
Text & Photo © CM Cordeiro 2023

It’s my first time in Lithuania, and I’m marveling at the broad streets that give a sense of pure luxury in having space to oneself. Laisves Aleja in Kaunas is the main pedestrian street that reminds me of Las Ramblas boulevard in Barcelona. It stretches impressively straight and long, framed at one end by the beautiful Church of St. Michael the Archangel. This boulevard is the lifeline of Kaunas, offering a kaleidoscope of shops and experiences.

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